FB-sling friction knot as a convincing replacement of the Prusik knot

The FB-sling friction knot is a further development of the Klemheist by Franz Bachmann, Switzerland


The FB-sling friction knot, tied with a sewn sling, offers some advantages over a common Prusik knot:
  • Greatly increased friction (even jams on steel wire)
  • An overhand knot tied close to the sewn junction provides a loop that stays open due to the stiffness of the seam. This eases the tying of the knot, and also unjams the knot after the load is released allowing the knot to be moved without further interaction
  • A sewn sling is stronger than a tied Prusik sling as there is no knot to pose a weak point or come undone
  • Instead of carrying knotted Prusik slings, a 60cm sewn sling can be used. A rope fixation can be set up very quickly, and it provides better handling and friction. This is especially important for the thin ropes used nowadays. Passing braking knots during self-rescue from crevasses works similar quickly to a Tibloc, but is more gentle to the rope.