Friction knots

From early biner friction knots to the FB-knot

1.1 - biner friction knot. First published in 1951. Mostly used in preparing first ascends.
1.2 - Bachmann knot, known as Nodo Bachmann in the Italian-speaking part, sometimes known as Bachmannknoten in the German-speaking part, but named like this in textbooks to distinguish it from other friction knots tied with biners.
1.3 - If the friction is too low due to a slick rope or undesireable biner shape, wrap the cord around the rope a few times as depicted.
1.4 - FB-ring knot. A knot with a tight profile. Very good friction, even on icy or wet ropes, while easily relocatable. Relation of cord/rope diameter up to 1:1. Especially suited for pretied ascending loops on a glacier. Ring made from steel, 4 to 5mm thickness, 26 to 30mm diameter. The ring experiences little mechanical stress during ascending.
1.5 - FB-knot. If no such ring is available, an overhand knot like depicted can be used as a replacement. This knot, like the FB-sling knot, is derived from the Klemheist, but they provide more grip, are more easily relocatable and suitable for building a one-way locking clutch. Both knots may also be tied with webbing.